fashion: moving heaven and earth
It’s a dated saying- “Never talk religion or politics at the dinner table”, but ‘impolite’, controversial subjects arouse the creatives of the world. Whether it’s a cheeky nod or a visual scream, designers are perpetually pushing the envelope to radicalise their audience. Art and its derivatives like fashion will ad infinitum be tools to liberate the mind from the cookie cutter that is society.
Oscar Wilde’s theory on life imitating art far more than art imitating life proposes a shift in our perception of what is dictated as beautiful. Interestingly enough, art in turn acts as a sponge, lapping up topical concepts every now and then. This constant inspiration cycle manifests deeply in fashion.
Throughout history, religion has materialised in culture— ranging from Jean Paul Gaultier’s ‘Chic Rabbis’ Fall Winter 1993 show, to Hindu headgears, waist-chains and draping techniques frequently appearing on international runways.
Recent years have seen The Cross trending, with houses slapping it onto just about any accessory or garment. Its resurgence, triggered by Fashion’s Biggest Night in 2018 with '“Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” as its theme. The Met Gala propelled couturiers to deliver optical enchantments- essentially, wearable art. Co-hosting were Rihanna in Mason Margiela, a bejewelled papal dream, and Donatella Versace- owing to Versace’s extensive Catholicism-influenced archive. While some attendees took the literal approach- Lana Del Ray’s recreation of ‘Our Lady of Seven Sorrows’ in Gucci. Others, like Phillip Picardi’s androgyny, took the route of impressionistic freedom that allows fashion to infiltrate the staunchest belief systems. Combining the personal and the political, he said he broke through his “fear of God” as a homosexual man.
Art follows dissent, making politics a breeding ground for individualistic expression. Fashion, a valiant change-maker is a means of mass protest. The commencement of the 2016 Trump administration triggered political exhibits during fashion week worldwide. Designers promptly clarified their positions, incorporating his slurs into their clothing. The ‘pussy hat’ from the Womens’ March on Washington was given front-row status in Missoni’s show- a critique of Trump’s infamous “Grab ‘em by the pussy” comment. Mexican designer Raul Solis’ charged messages on underwear worn by his models- “F*ck Your Wall” and “No Ban No Wall”, made for a fierce display. Possibly spearheading this movement was English designer Katherine Hamnet’s “CHOOSE LIFE” t-shirts in the 80s.
Subsequently, the #Pantsuitpower propaganda for Hillary Clinton, was a flash mob performed in an array of bright suits- as popularised by her. The empowered declaration enabled by fashion had more to do with what the pantsuit represented to her supporters, than its unmistakable identity.
Perhaps one of the most style-centric events of the year though, Pride month in June pertains to the LGBTQI community and is everything fashion boasts of— colour, celebration and confidence. Especially relevant to India is the 6th September parade, commemorated as the official abolishment of Section 377.
With politics and fashion blurring lines world over- India is yet to witness fashion’s potential pivotal role in its volatile climate, but may be on the brink of shaking up legislation.
